The operational demands of a Roman fullonica required a rigorous division of labor to process textiles efficiently. The fullones initiated their daily labor in the treading vats, where raw wool and soiled garments were subjected to alkaline solutions. Because soap was not widely utilized, workshop managers optimized the sourcing of ammonia by establishing public urinals, thereby securing a steady supply of human urine. This chemical solvent was essential to break down the lanolin in new wool and extract grease from worn tunics. The labor was physically punishing; workers spent hours treading the submerged cloth barefoot in small, walled niches, necessitating a strictly monitored rotation of personnel to maintain continuous production.
Once the initial scouring concluded, the textiles progressed to the rinsing complex. Archaeological evidence indicates that large-scale workshops strategically located their interconnected basins near municipal aqueduct branches to ensure a continuous flow of fresh water. After thoroughly expelling the alkaline residue, the fullers engaged in the meticulous raising and shearing of the nap. Using aeneae (bronze combs) or thistle heads, they brushed the damp fabric to align the fibers, followed by careful shearing to produce a uniform texture.
To achieve the brilliant white favored for patrician garments, the cloth was stretched over wicker frames and exposed to the fumes of burning sulfur. This bleaching procedure required precise timing to prevent the chemical degradation of the textile. Finally, the cloth was placed under massive wooden presses. This mechanized compression not only flattened the weave but also imparted a resilient crease and structural integrity to the finished garment, demonstrating the advanced mechanical and chemical mastery inherent in Roman textile production.
